Reflections from the restaurant beat in 2013.
by Jon Palmer ClaridgeIt was a very good, global year. 2013 began with bagels, and then took me with CL’s readers around the world. On the way, it ran the gamut: from fine china to paper and plastic, sushi to burgers, beer-battered fish to foie gras. The cuisine was raw, sous vide, dehydrated, sautéed, braised, roasted, baked, boiled, gelled, fried and foamed. It included a spectrum of foodstuffs from sugarplums that dance in your head to a protein continuum from the sea’s bounty to the riches of the farm. We explored American cuisine from sea to shining sea, dipped down to Mexico, then swooped into England, France, Italy, Spain and Germany, hopped over to Lebanon, skipped to Vietnam and Thailand and finally jumped into the gastro-glory that is China for Szechuan, Hunan, and Cantonese dim sum.
Star ratings with Goethe as a guide In my inaugural CL column, I stated, “My main man Goethe asked three questions when critiquing food (or was it art?): 1) What were they trying to do? 2) How well did they do it? And finally, 3) Was it worth doing?” I still use these questions as a guide and then translate the answers into our five-star system as follows: 1=Poor, 2=Fair, 3=Good, 4=Excellent, 5=World Class. While we currently have no world-class avant garde restaurants, there’s plenty of terrific food around Tampa Bay. Any restaurant getting three stars or above is one where you can confidently spend your money. More importantly, I try to capture the experience, both good and bad, in my weekly narrative. It’s possible flaws that bother me might not be a big deal to you. My goal is to get you excited about local dining, and out of the house to try something new.
Great food comes from unexpected places As I’ve previously established, I’m more of a white tablecloth than a sand-surf-beer-with-a-side-of-something-fried guy. However, I know a good thing when I see it. And on a recent Sunday I tried the “big fish” weekly special at Woody’s Waterfront Cafe and Beach Bar in St. Pete. Not only is it an amazing bargain at $9.95, but the huge piece of beer-battered haddock is one of the best fish dishes I had all year. The fillet is so enormous it barely fits on the plate, and the coating is perfectly crisp and crackling; so much so, that I ate the entire serving with my fingers because it shattered with a knife and fork. I couldn’t bear missing even a tiny shard juxtaposed against the juicy fish.
Thrilling interiors can miss the gastronomic mark The sad theme this year is that three of the area’s most beautiful new restaurants, Oxford Exchange, Birch & Vine, and Rococo Steak, combine thrilling new design with underwhelming cuisine. I trust the savvy restaurateurs and their well-credentialed chefs will remedy the situation in 2014 if they haven’t already. Only The Canopy (on The Birchwood rooftop) managed to thread the needle.
Return visits pay dividends When friends come to town, I return to some well-reviewed favorites on my own dime. These meals only serve to prove that my initial impressions are spot on. If you haven’t visited Cena in Channelside, Ciro’s Speakeasy in Hyde Park or Pensare on Dunedin’s Main Street, you’re missing out. Cena is my BOTB pick for best new restaurant. Ciro’s cocktails rock, as does the luscious cheese fondue that I had on a visit after my review. And I can’t get enough of Pensare’s shrimp Mediterraneo — it’s a simple but unforgettable dish.
RIP Samba Room This 2012 BOTB New Restaurant flashed across the culinary sky like a comet and was gone this spring after just seven months. It’s a sad commentary that an eatery filled with mind-blowing dishes can’t find an audience. Luckily, my palate remembers. 2014 will see if the trade to Copper Fish is worth it.
Top of the heap for special occasions Obvious choices for celebration are my three 4.5-star establishments: SideBern’s, Café Ponte and Maritana Grille. But in retrospect, I find myself dreaming of the white truffle risotto with lobster tail at the intimate, romantic Black Pearl in Dunedin. Treat yourself — impeccable technique is evident in every menu item.
Real artisanal pizza is on the corner of Franklin & Twigg I’ll be exploring the region’s pizza sometime in 2014. In the meantime, honest-to-god thin-crust, wood-fired Neapolitan pies with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, and fresh basil provide an authentic taste of old Napoli at Bavaro’s in downtown Tampa. Bravissimo!
Finding a wine mentor to expand your palate is worth the energy In February this year I began a new monthly wine column, Drink More Wine. My goal is not to encourage you to fill a bucket with your wine knowledge, but rather to light the fire of a new passion. Continue to taste and learn. Pick the brain of the sommelier when you dine out. Establish a relationship with a wine merchant and find a regular salesperson/mentor who will understand your palate and guide you to expand your tastes.
Try someplace and something new “Variety is the spice of life.” This isn’t a cliché for nothing. Make yourself a promise that 2014 is a year full of new gastronomic experiences. There’s plenty affordable, exciting food at local Mom & Pop places; up your game and skip the chains.